Damsel flies have long been a favorite amongst hungry trout and bass, and since the beginning of time fly fishermen have imitated these colorful, elegant insects using feathers, furs and synthetics.  Today, a new type of synthetic foam is available on the market called Loco Foam.  This revolutionary new material combines the qualities of dense 2mm foam with reflective qualities of pearl, giving the material new depth when it comes to realism.  The sheen seen on this foam closely resembles the sheen on insect bodies, thus making it a perfect choice for wiser fish.

The N2 Loco Damsel is the first N2 fly of 2004, and for good reason.  It offers a super realistic body, due to the Loco Foam, and combines it with other realism factors such as kinked pearl Mylar wings and knotted turkey quill fiber legs. Burnt mono eyes are added as the final touch.  The end result is a great looking fly that not only raises the attention of a fish, but is likely to catch a few fly fishermen as well.

Loco Foam is a self titled product fabricated in Virginia, USA.  The product is made by the same company that produces the hot new material "Sili Skin".  It is readily available at fly shops, or directly online at http://www.locofoam.com

Tying the fly:

1.  Cut a 1/8" thick strip of pearl chartreuse Loco Foam around 5" long.  Other colors may be used when tying variants, or when trying to match the hatch.



2.  Place a sowing needle in your vise, securing it at the eye.  The needle should be at least as long as you want your extended body to be.



3.  Stick the needle through the middle of the foam (both length and width wise), making sure that the shiny, or pearlescent side of the foam faces the vise.



4.  Fold both the top and bottom sections of the foam so they are parallel with the needle and carefully start the first segment by wrapping the thread tightly around the foam and the needle.  This is somewhat tricky as the thread has to be started at the same time, so tight, overlapping wraps are key.



5.  Proceed to make the second segment in the same fashion as the first only carry the thread forward along the seam of the top and bottom parts of the foam, so the thread is not exposed.



6.  Continue to create segments, following the same steps as above until you've created about 5 or 6 segments, or a 1" long extended body.  Do not trim the excess foam.  Tie in a couple of half hitch knots at the last segment and leave the thread attached; do not cut anything.



7.  Remove the needle from the vise and slowly pull it out of the foam, until it's removed entirely.  If done properly you will end up with a great looking extended body with the thread and excess foam still attached.  Secure the TMC 205BL size 16 hook in the vise.



8.  Carefully use the thread already attached to the extended body and start it on the hook shank.  Make several overlapping wraps to over both the top and bottom section of the foam.  Once secured, trim only the bottom piece of foam.



9.  Cut 4 kinked pearl Mylar wings, 2 slightly smaller than the others.  Bring the thread forward on the shank and tie in the first wing; one of the smaller ones.  A figure 8 method is best when tying in Mylar.



10.  Tie in the the second smaller wing, on the opposite side of the first.  Ensure that both wings are level and angle the same way.



11.  Using the figure 8 method again, tie in the third wing, this time one of the larger ones slightly forward of the first pair of wings.



12.  Tie in the final wing, opposite of the third.  Ensure that both wings are level and angle the same way.  Once all of the wings are tied in, apply a small amount of head cement to lock the thread, and Mylar wings into place.



13.  Bring the thread towards the eye of the hook and tie in small burnt mono eyes on top of the hook shank.  Secure with figure 8 method.



14.  Move the thread to the very back of the shank where the foam body meets the hook.  Apply a very small amount of chartreuse Ice dubbing to the thread and dub entire body, carefully avoiding moving the wings.  Stop just before the mono eyes.



15.  Rotate the fly so that it is upside down in the vise.  Prepare 6 double knotted black turkey quill fibers, to use as legs.  Tying knots of single strands of a feather can be more than frustrating, however they do complete the fly quite well.  Once the legs are ready, tie in 3 legs per side of the fly.



16.  Rotate the vise or hook again so that it is right side up.  Pull the foam tag left at the base of the extended body forward and tie in behind the mono eyes.  Trim any excess and create a small head with the thread.  Whip finish and apply head cement.



Written By: Nick Pujic, © Feb, 2004
Photographs By:  © Nick Pujic