Still water fly fishing calls for slightly different tactics than river or stream fishing.  Underwater structure, water conditions, and perhaps most importantly aquatic life found in lakes are substantially different than those in flowing water.  By understanding these changes and reacting accordingly a fly fisher can make the transition between flowing and still water seamless.

The dragon fly is a common inhabitant of trout lakes across North America.  Some species of adult dragon flies can grow to a full 5", thus eliminating them from your typical trout menu.  However it is during the dragon fly's larval stage that they are most susceptible to prowling trout.   The dragon fly nymph is often a variation of olive, or dark brown, or a combination of both.  They vary in size from 3/4" to 1.5" and provide higher than average nutritional value compared to many other nymphs of the same size.

In addition to being great void fillers, dragon fly nymphs are very distinctive.  Their fat bodies and protruding eyes set them apart from other nymphs.  Tying dragon fly nymphs is equally as unique.  Fly tyers face the challenge of creating a pronounced silhouette, which is wider than it is thicker.  This pattern is just one of many commonly used today to imitate this favorite trout food.  Best fished in lakes during Spring or early Summer crawling along the bottom, these patterns are sure to increase you chances of hooking up with those current-less trout.

Tying the Dragon Fly Nymph:

1.  Secure the hook in the vise and wrap lead wire or non-lead wire to add weight.



2.  Start the thread, secure it by making several overlapping wraps, and secure the lead to the shank.  Move the thread to the tail of the fly and tie in a 5" strip of brown chenille.



3.  Tie in a 5" strand of fine copper wire at the tail of the fly.  Secure the copper wire as well as the chenille in a material holding spring on your vise if possible.  This allows you to work on the fly without any interruption.



4.  Wrap the thread forward towards the eye of the hook.  Using the figure eight method, secure a set of large black plastic or burnt monofilament eyes.  These eyes should be at least one size larger than eye which would normally be used on a nymph this size.



5.  Cut 4 narrow strips of furry foam and tie 2 strips along each side of the hook shank.  Make sure that the strips stay to the side of the shank and do not slip or rotate on top or underneath the shank as you apply pressure to the thread.  These strips provide the flat, yet wide profile that dragon fly nymphs are known for.



6.  Wrap the chenille forward, covering the entire body created by the furry foam which should be covering approximately 3/4 of the hook shank.  After the chenille is secured, wrap the copper wire as a rib.  This enhances the durability of the fly and provides a nice segmented look.



7.  Fold a piece of brown raffia to form a small but wide wingcase.  Secure with thread and trim the excess.



8.  Strip 6 fibers from a natural colored pheasant tail and create a noticeable kink, or bend in them by folding them over a corner or blunt edge and applying pressure.  Tie in 3 fibers per side, creating distinct "bent" legs.



9.  Dub a generous thorax using brown Caddis Lifecycle dubbing and move the thread towards the eye of the hook.



10.  Rotate the fly upside down in the vise.  Using a bodkin or a dubbing needle, pick out some dubbing so that the fibers are sticking out on the bottom of the fly.  This further enhances the look of the legs.



11.  Restore the fly to it's upright position, whip finish and apply head cement.
Also, check out an this nymph in olive!  Click Here.

Written By: Nick Pujic, © March, 2004
Photographs By:  Nick Pujic, © March, 2004