Crane flies are one of the most underestimated insects of the order
Dipthera. People rave over fishing Caddis flies, Mayflies and Trico’s but
hardly ever venture to think that Crane flies could be a very productive
fish catching pattern. With numerous species of Crane flies being found
throughout North America the one genus that stands out from the rest would
have to be that of the Giant Crane Fly (Tipula abdominalis). These large
tasty morsels to fish represent one of the few quality surface feeding
opportunities for fly anglers ranging from early spring to late fall.
Crane flies most generally can be seen prodding around the waters surface
after a heavy rain, but due to the adults quick dehydration time Crane
flies are forced to stay near watery environments. The best bet for
anglers is to use Crane flies patterns after a light rain or whenever a
stiff breeze presents itself. Crane flies are not the swiftest of flies
and the slightest wind can send them tumbling to the waters surface. Even
though we perceive adult crane fly patterns as just an ordinary dry fly it
is not. Crane Fly patterns dead drifted will catch fish, but not nearly
like when the patterns is skipped and hopped along the waters surface.
Active presentations work best, simply touch the fly down two or three
times in the same spot as if a natural insect had fallen to the water and
was trying to take flight again. After you bounce the fly a few times let
it drift past the hole where you think the fish might be laying and pick
it and do it again. Usually, I take two or three attempts at a possible
fish and if no reaction is seen then it is time to move on.
Not only will this technique work for you on big rivers and lakes but it
seems to be especially effective for duping trout out of small streams in
tight cover. Trout seem to have a weakness for these helpless over-sized
looking mosquitos, so adding a few into your fly box can only help to
better your odds in hooking up consistently with quality trout.
|
Culprit Crane Fly |
| Hook: |
TMC Scud Size 10 |
| Thread: |
Tan Uni-Thread Size 8/0 |
| Body: |
Hare's Ear Dubbing |
| Eyes: |
Plastic Black Bead Chain Eyes |
| Legs: |
Paint Brush Bristles |
| Wings: |
Montana Fly Company Winging Material |
| Thorax: |
Pheasant Tail Fibers |
Tying The Culprit Crane
1. Start this fly by placing your hook into the vise securely and
attaching the thread behind the hook eye. Tie in a pair of the black bead
chain eyes behind the hook eye using figure eight thread wraps and a
little head cement. Once the eyes are secured in place bring the thread
down to the rear of the hook shank. The thread should stop at
approximately the point where the hook begins to curve.

2. Pinch dub the thread and begin to wrap a nice, slowly tapering
body forward up the hook shank. Stop at approximately the 1/3 mark on the
hook shank and clean off any dubbing left over on the thread.

3. Clip 10-15 long pheasant tail fibers and tie them down in front
of the dubbed body you just wrapped. Continue to dub the body once again,
but this time one for 4-5 wraps of dubbed thread. Once the newly dubbed
section reach the same taper as the rest of the body pull the pheasant
tail fibers forward over the dubbed body and tie them down to the hook
shank.

4. In front of the wing-case you just created tie in two paint
brush bristles per side. Pinch dub the thread once more and fill in the
body between the legs and up to the back of the bead chain eyes.

5. Using you MFC wing cutters or scissors cut out a pair of wings
to be tied on top of the back of the fly. Tie in the wings, one per side
behind the bead chain eyes. The wings should extend just a little past the
end of the hook. Dub the thread once more and cover the tie down point of
the wings. Pull the remaining pheasant tail fibers forward over the bead
chain eyes and tie off at the rear of the hook eye.

6. Clip the tag ends of the pheasant tail fibers and whip finish
and cement the thread. Using heated tweezers pinch and bend the paint
brush bristles to form joints in the legs (two bends in opposite
directions for each leg). Lastly apply a little head cement to the leg
joints you just created to hold them in shape even after routine abuse.

Tight lines and smooth threads,
Written By: Jason Akl, June 2004
Photographs By: Jason Akl © 2004 |