You've seen it, we all have! Huge carp by the dozens around docks,
shorelines, shallow coves and ponds. They always seem docile, and
inactive. Ever wonder why? If you try to throw out some corn or
dough and get them going, they just sit there, completely un-phased and
continue their daily routine. Although fly fishing for carp is not a
traditional activity, the wide availability of carp has made it more
popular. Landing a lunker carp on fly gear is truly rewarding.
If you are tired of just looking at 20, 30 even 40 pound carp, or you
would like to try fly fishing for carp for the first time then read on
because you'll find out how, when, and where to catch trophy carp by using
a some very simple fly patterns.
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The Equipment
An absolute necessity for carp angling on the fly is good visibility.
Without good visibility, you stand about a 1 in a 1000 chance in hooking
and landing a carp. This is why the use of good quality polarized
sun glasses is highly recommended. In most cases, as you will find
out, when fly fishing for carp you already see the fish you are trying to
catch. The equipment needed is also very simple. A basic 9'
9wt fly rod with a good sized reel, and a whole lot of backing should do.
Prepare yourself with about a 6 foot, 12 lb leader at the end of your
line, with 2-3 small split shot spread out evenly. The split shot is
used to |
increase accuracy of your "cast" as well as assist the fly in getting down to the desired depth. The closest, and thus smallest
split shot should be at least 8" away from the fly.
The flies
The fly most commonly used carp flies are larva imitations. A
personal favorite is the "Chubby Caddis Larva", a very simple fly with
countless variations. The Chubby Caddis Larva consists of the
following:
| The Chubby
Caddis Larva |
| Image: |
 |
| Hook:
|
Size 6-10 Nymph |
| Thread: |
Black 6/0 |
| Body: |
Yellow, or
orange dubbing. Preferably something with some sparkle. |
| Legs: |
Few black
or brown hackle strands under the thorax. |
| Thorax: |
Black or
dark brown dubbing. Seals fur, or other buggy materials will be
just fine. |
| Tail: |
Optional. |
| Notes: |
This fly
can be tied in just about any color combination. The important
thing is to keep it simple and mimic reality. |
As shown above, the fly is very simplistic in construction, yet manages
to capture the image of a life like squirmy grub or larva when wet.
If you are tying your own flies, do not be afraid to experiment!
Olive, brown, tan, and red variations of the above also work very well.
The size and color of the fly should be determined by the water
conditions. The murkier the water, the brighter and bigger the fly.
As a standard, try to use a size 8 natural version of the fly in clear,
calm waters. In rougher waters a weighted version of this
fly may be required, if this is the case, just wrap some lead wire around
the hook shank and tie as usual.
Location & Approach
When trying to prospect for possible carp fly fishing locations, always
check the potential areas for shallow coves infested with cattails and
other types of dense growth. Carp come into these shallow areas
about 3-4 weeks before their spawning period, and stay the for the
duration of the summer. Carp spawning season usually begins in mid to late
spring.
Carp prefer to spawn in relatively weedy, shallow areas, often not much
deeper than 2 to 3 feet. These areas are prime areas for carp
fishing. In order to target carp using fly tackle, you will need to
get wet so bring the waders out for this trip folks! Once a
potential location has been established, wade along the cattail line,
constantly looking for any sign of a carp such as splashes, movement in
the weeds, or breaching carp tails. These are tell tale signs of
spawning or feeding carp, just what we are looking for! In some
cases the carp can be heard rustling in the weeds as they spawn, so a keep
hearing sense can be your advantage. The carp family and some
species of catfish are the only types of fish that can take in straight
air without it being dissolved in water, this is why you sometimes see
carp gasping at the waters surface, especially those long, dry summer
months. Wearing drab colored clothing is also a definite plus as the distance between yourself and
a carp can be as little as 2 to 3 feet at times. It is important to conceal as much of yourself as possible.
Stealth is key.
Once a carp is spotted, do all you can to prevent it from spotting you!
A slow but sure drop of the fly 12" in front of the carp is the best bet.
Be sure not to let the fly sink too fast as the underwater motions of the
fly will seem unnatural to the carp and it will likely spook. The
ideal approach is to let the fly slowly sway to the bottom, only then
giving it slight "twitching" motions. if done correctly more often
than not these actions will convince a carp that he is looking at a meal
and the fish will grab the fly.
Upon a strike, the hook must be set fast and hard! Because carp have
soft rubbery mouths it is easy for them to completely swallow the hook,
creating a smaller survival ratio upon release. Conversely, the fish
can decide that the fly isn't a meal after all and will simply spit out
the fly before the hook is set. The key is to "see" the fish take
the fly and to be decisive in your actions. Trial and error is a
must in this learning process.
Once the carp is hooked, give it room. Try to get the fish clear of
the cattails and out in open water. Sometimes this requires you
rushing through the weeds trying to follow the path of the fish in order
to avoid a tangle. It may all seem like a lot of effort and trouble
for a fish that is not looked at as a prize, but trust me it is definitely
worth it!
Written By: Nick Pujic,
© Jan, 2003
Photographs By: Nick Pujic & Glen Hales |
